Nikko Self-Drive: Toshogu, Kyudo Taikai, and Initial D

💡 Kurzantwort (TL;DR)

I am writing this because a friend requested it. Instead of Mt. Akina—which I only speed through in games—I chose Nikko: Initial D (Irohazaka), Toshogu Shrin...

I am writing this because a friend requested it. Instead of Mt. Akina—which I only speed through in games—I chose Nikko: Initial D (Irohazaka), Toshogu Shrine, and the Ogi-no-Mato Kyudo Taikai. Consider this a one-day Nikko self-drive itinerary.

Transportation

You can drive directly from Tokyo to Nikko in about two hours. However, my friends and I took the Shinkansen to Utsunomiya and rented a car. From Utsunomiya Station, it’s about a 40km (50 min) drive via the expressway to our first stop: Nikko Toshogu Shrine.

Nikko Toshogu Shrine

Nikko Toshogu Shrine honors Tokugawa Ieyasu. If you plan your trip for the August Kyudo Taikai, you will miss the shrine's grand Spring Festival in May, which features Yabusame (horseback archery) and a parade of 1,000 samurai.

Food

After exploring Toshogu Shrine in the morning, grab lunch at the famous "Uoyou" for some light and delicious soba or udon noodles.

Ogi-no-Mato Kyudo Taikai

After lunch, drive up to Lake Chuzenji for the Ogi-no-Mato Kyudo Taikai. The event runs from 9 AM to 3 PM. The mountain road from Toshogu to the lake is exactly the uphill route of Initial D's Irohazaka. The archers aim at fans instead of standard targets to commemorate the legendary archer Nasu no Yoichi.

During the Battle of Yashima in 1184, the Taira clan sent a small boat with a beautiful lady and a crimson-and-gold fan to provoke the Minamoto clan. Nasu no Yoichi was chosen to respond. Riding his horse into the sea, he shot the swaying fan from over 70 meters away, instantly boosting the Minamoto clan's morale.

To honor Nasu no Yoichi's feat, the Ogi-no-Mato Kyudo Taikai is held every August 4th at Lake Chuzenji, attracting nearly 2,000 participants annually.

Initial D - Irohazaka

The road to Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls is the famous Irohazaka. It consists of two one-way roads—one for uphill and one for downhill—with a total of 48 hairpin turns, matching the 48 syllables of the Japanese Iroha alphabet.

In Initial D, the downhill Irohazaka was the course where Takumi faced Kyoichi Sudo and Kai Kogashiwa. Its narrow, one-way structure and infamous "jumping" corners make it legendary. A self-driving trip to Nikko satisfies everything: World Heritage sites, traditional kyudo tournaments, and an Initial D pilgrimage. Of course, reality isn't a game—drive safely and enjoy the scenic views!

Route Map

This itinerary focuses on the August Kyudo Taikai. There are loads of other attractions nearby, such as Futarasan Shrine and Kegon Falls. Take your time, don't rush, and enjoy the beautiful drive!